History of the hoop skirt Starting with the Farthingale

I was going to do all the hoop skirts in one post but I decided to break it into each individual style per post 

 The other day I wanted to find out exactly when the petticoats went back to a crinoline hoop skirt, so this lead me to do a bunch of research on the history of the hoop skirt. 

Hoop skirts 

  Basicaly the hoop skirt is a womans undergarments, which were worn threw out the years to support skirts in the fashionable shape during the period.

    A hoop skirts construction is of  a consist of petticoats with casings sewn where hoop steels, whalebone, rope or other materials were used to hold it in the right shape. 

Threw the era's there were Farthingales 16th, Panniers 18th, Crinoline mid 19th, Bustle 19th

The Farthingale    

(Spanish verdugado) a term applied to an structures used under western European womans clothing in the late 15th and 16th centuries to support the skirts into the desired shape.

The Farthingale was used during 15th and 16th centuries, originated in Spain, the Spanish farthingale was originally stiffened with Giant cane, and later with willow cuttings, rope, and some where around 1580 whalebone.   

Giant cane: Arundo donaz tall perennial cane ( reed) 

Tudor Gowns show the silhouette of the Spanish Farthingale, and essential to Tudor fashion 

French farthingales, 1580 ( also known as bumroll) 

   The French Farthingale was also known as a bumroll introduced 1570 to england from Franc 

           * it appears to have consisted of a bloster-like rool either stuffed or held out with reeds which being fastened around the hips, served the purpose of widening the skirts at the hip area, creating drapes.

            * some modern costumes conjecture that the french farthingale and the great farthingale refer to one and that same garment, the difference in shape and construction being due to changes in fashion from the 1580's to the 1590's

Silhouette, 1590s Elizabeth 1, the Ditchley portrait

The Great farthingale also known as a drum or wheel or cartwheel and in some casses the Catherine-wheel, this name was given to the style of farthingale which evolved from the french farthingale, becoming fashionable in the 1590's

Unforunatly there are no surviving examples of this type of garment, but throw references like the painting of Queen Elizabeth above and her wardobe accounts during the time refer to the size of the structure. 

The great farthingale was worn at an angle ("low befor + high behind") which elongated the torso and shortened the legs. 

terrible photo of my sketch of a great farthingale, a little to long and a small sketch of the silhoute of the tudor farthingale

Tudor

Great farthingale but not as large as some

Tudor farthingale under structure flats 

this is just amaszing, you can see her blog on the check this one out link I have below 

I love this image with all the mini farthingales 

some resources 

Books:

Corsets and Crinolines 

Basics of Corset building 

Jean Hunnisett books, expensive but worth while and you can get them at the library

Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620

Web

http://www.myfairelady.com/?page_id=39 CHECK THIS ONE OUT 

http://farthingales.on.ca/tips.php?article=54 

http://thompsonfuselage.com/Angus%20TailorFarthingale%20Artical.html

http://www.sempstress.org/2010/recreating-the-alcega-farthingale-for-modern-bodies/

  

I have been Busy

I'm in the prossece of a lot of projects, but it looks like i might be getting a job at coopers and I really need more time focused on sewing, now that I have an amazing two dress forms, one I got 1/2 off at fabricland that is an adjustable form , and one from a really good friend Maridah, who also sent me an amazing wonder woman book and the droid I was looking for.

One of my best friends birthdays was yesterday and my aunt sent her quilt in the mail, I hope she gets it soon, theres also some money so she can get a pedicure.

any ways I'm on day 6 of 7 before 3 days off that will be spent on finishing sewing projects hope to have a bunch of updates and some info about hoop skirts I've been putting together for you :)

Awesome 

and awesomer Maridah = amazing 

These are some of my cosplay ideas for next year 

Bloody Euphi 

Fox Caster 

Lily Caster

Ellie Satter Jurasic Park 

Samantha Carter - SG1

trip to fabric land

Well I found a quilt for me to make for my self !!! KITTY"S yes, I am going to make a cat quilt for me. How could I pass up this fabric, its cats and sewing combined !!!!!!! LOVE IT. Now I have to find all the other fabric I want for this quilt. This will take a while and its going to be an on going project. 

Second thing, Fabric land is into steampunk >.> * face palm* really people, yes I like these patterns but you can make any pattern steampunk so why would you buy a specific one that everyone else is going to have. I am waiting to see the next con or photos of everyone doing this. >.> *face palm again* 

Corset progress and research

I've been doing a lot of research kinda on all periods right now mostly 19th century, accumulating notes and makes a reference for my self.

As for my corset its finished construction wise, I'm adding some embroidery and probably some lace for aesthetic

I'm just going with some simple design and of course its blue cause that's my favorite colour 

now two things one I didn't mean to have the flour but since I decided to prik my self with the extremely sharp needle and here's the trick for getting blood out of things at least mostly, your own saliva. Only your saliva will work for your blood of course. any ways most of it came out and I wanted to do a flour any ways, I hope it looks alright.

used basic straight stitches and a button hole for the flour petals, my embroidery book is in storage. 

Cobra side bag, and a Quilt

So I offered a contest a cobra side bag for the winner and it took me for ever to get to finishing it but here it is.

I find it hard some times to work on things for others, I just need to have multiple projects on the go so I don't get board I think. 

Started working on a quilt I've had on the go for a while, close to being finished now

The Buccaneers

 

A 1995 mini series by BBC, based on the last novel written by Edith Wharton, the  book was unfinished when she passed away in 1937. Scholar Marion Mainwaring finished the novel in 1993. BBC Hired Maggie Wadey to adapt and finish the novel at the same time for the television adaption.

The Story is about five wealthy, American girls who with their guardians go to London to experience a London season ( now I had to look up what London season meant ) look below for some brief descriptions.) The ladies find them self marring cash poor but title rich and land rich Englishmen. The story focuses on Nan who marries the Duke of Tintagel, and the story focuses on the values and morals that the fashionable society held at this time. The girls being american searched for love and found that it was more about who you married.

The storyline is said to mirror the real "ill-fated" marriage of heiress Consuelo Vanderbilt and the Duke of Marlborough

I have watched the first 2 episodes and I quiet enjoy it since I've taken to doing research on the 19th century right now and this being the later half and Victorian, industrial revolution it seems. I love Nan's character a true loving sole who marries the Duke, who seems more fascinated with clocks then their marriage.

The costumes are lovely done, BBC has obviously been doing a good job with their mini series for a long time

Costumed by

Rosalind Ebbutt, also costume "Vanity Fair" 1998 A&E and "To play the King" 1993

The girls in day dress's I love the prints <3 and simple details, each dress really suits each girl very well 

I have not see the episode with this dress yet but its amazing and I can't wait to 

a very nice close up of the gowns details 

a better over view of the dress's designs 

simplistic and pretty

This image is very dramatic and dynamic very nicely done

London season :  London social season evolved in the 17th and 18th centuries, and in its traditional form it peaked in the 19th century. In this era the British elite was dominated by landowning aristocratic and gentry families who generally regarded their country houseas their main home, but spent several months of the year in the capital to socialise and to engage in politics. - wiki

A comical image of the English season 

1847 Jane Eyre

I just finished watching Jane Eyre the 2011 movie

I love watching movies like this because of the costuming, and the elegant beauty it has, the movie doesn't focus on upper class society which is even more neat because you get to see more simplistic designs but they are still just as beautiful. The craftsmanship and work that went into costuming this movie makes me wish I was perusing this field more then I am.

I want to share with you some of my knowledge in hopes to refresh my mind and just talk about some of the things I love most about this era

First the era, now these are upper class ladies in a day time setting but the dress's seem more evening to me not day dress's especially the front dress. She has pagoda sleeves off the shoulder, bertha collar a pointed bodice and her skirt is something more reminiscent of French pannier skirts that make almost what I think looks like a stage look. By stage I mean curtains on the side of the stage, the under skirt is also reminiscent of pannier skirts with the gathered textured looked used co-manly on them. The lady in the back though wearing a lovely gown has a more basic hair style so I think of her as older.

This image caught my eye after watching Jane Eyre because of her french ward, she was a young child and dressed very similarly to this. The woman in the background I would have said was the children's tutor if I didn't look closer and see the amount of detail and layers, so this must be their mother. 

for this picture I love how they show the womans posture very properly in the image, in these days a woman's shoulder's were very sloped and rounded and she would lean forward. This was a way of showing delicatenesses and submisivense, things that we're proper and sought after in lady's.

this image has great skirts, wraps and bonnets which we're all very popular accessories threw out the eras. The setting is evening wear

 You can see the bend again in this image

I feel in this image the women is wearing a wedding dress, all white with delicate bertha collar and pagoda sleeves. The bottom skirt is so beautiful and I image might have been silk lace layers. 

Theres something about the men in this era their so darn hansom 

Here are the upper class gowns, and something I notice is the more conservative plain gowns have no point at the waist. I love the detail of this gown,, it is in the way they used the fabric to create the beauty. Without thought this gown would just look average and have nothing. But they took the time to lay out the pattern pieces with the strips to get this effect.  

The sisters that nurse Jane back together are lovely, they come from a conservative life style and you can see a delicate but charming peasant collar. and not where the shoulder seams are on the gowns, mobility was not made easy by this lady's

This is my favorite gown of hers, the gathered detail that reminds me again of the details on french panniers, and the dark fabric with some kind of floral design on it that you can just make out.

this image is part of my fav seen, she's sitting in a room with many upper class lady's and men who are wearing the finest of clothing, and you see how different the class's are but I think you can still see how amazing the garments of this era we're.

This movie makes me want to watch some of the other version's as I feel like some parts of this make no sense to me or are disconnected story wise. But thats what remakes due they cut lots out, and that is my only complaint about this movie. I think it was beautiful and 5 thumbs up for the designer.

As it is I'm taking a back seat self teaching role well working off student loans, and right now I'm just making money can't wait to make my first payment but any who this isnt what this post is about, but I guess when I talk about these things I have a hard time because I'm afraid that I'm saying it wrong because of the people in my life and teachers the way they talk makes me feel like nothing I say is right and I have a hard time with that.

So I hope you all enjoy this I love this era and the details from this that flow into the civil war/ gone with the wind era I love so dear.