progress up date

So today I only worked on my Christmas present quilt project to get it to one spot all the squares I need are to here, I was going to make each hanging with three squares one plain and two like this but I've changed it up . One square plain so I can embroider on it and then one like the one above.  

This is what I worked on mostly I had already gotten to this point the other day, so I had the top petticoat gathered. What took me so long today was the ruffle on the top petticoat I just did it the most time consuming way possible because I could I guess not sure why. 

This is me gathering the under petticoat, the reason I posted this image is to show a double gathered stitch and how much better it looks the when trying to do it with only a single row of stitching or like what happened to me just below 

one of the strings broke and you can see how much neater and easier it is to sew with two likes of gathering stitching 

this is the other reason it took me so long, I spent a lot of time doing math today to figure out if I had enough fabric for the under petticoat. I did not have enough of any one kind,, and even then I had to buy the pretty bottom print you see, which was pricey. But I was able to piece this together, the reason I didn't use any of my other fabric was because I didn't want it to become to heavy and cause discomfort as well as possibly misshaping the hoops. 

oh so pretty 

Stupid ruffles *glare*, oh high pretty expensive fabric on the underneath your so cute with that perfectly matching cotton lace :)

decided to go all out and embroider this up instead of the plain straight stitch 

top and bottom together, happy with my choice to make and use both, now you can't see the hoops at all and the skirt of the dress will sit much nicer i think. 

just chilling in my hoops and petticoats, couldn't help my self 

it's fun trying to stand up in this its like a suction cup

yep much to wide for this mirror lol 

History of the hoop skirt Starting with the Farthingale

I was going to do all the hoop skirts in one post but I decided to break it into each individual style per post 

 The other day I wanted to find out exactly when the petticoats went back to a crinoline hoop skirt, so this lead me to do a bunch of research on the history of the hoop skirt. 

Hoop skirts 

  Basicaly the hoop skirt is a womans undergarments, which were worn threw out the years to support skirts in the fashionable shape during the period.

    A hoop skirts construction is of  a consist of petticoats with casings sewn where hoop steels, whalebone, rope or other materials were used to hold it in the right shape. 

Threw the era's there were Farthingales 16th, Panniers 18th, Crinoline mid 19th, Bustle 19th

The Farthingale    

(Spanish verdugado) a term applied to an structures used under western European womans clothing in the late 15th and 16th centuries to support the skirts into the desired shape.

The Farthingale was used during 15th and 16th centuries, originated in Spain, the Spanish farthingale was originally stiffened with Giant cane, and later with willow cuttings, rope, and some where around 1580 whalebone.   

Giant cane: Arundo donaz tall perennial cane ( reed) 

Tudor Gowns show the silhouette of the Spanish Farthingale, and essential to Tudor fashion 

French farthingales, 1580 ( also known as bumroll) 

   The French Farthingale was also known as a bumroll introduced 1570 to england from Franc 

           * it appears to have consisted of a bloster-like rool either stuffed or held out with reeds which being fastened around the hips, served the purpose of widening the skirts at the hip area, creating drapes.

            * some modern costumes conjecture that the french farthingale and the great farthingale refer to one and that same garment, the difference in shape and construction being due to changes in fashion from the 1580's to the 1590's

Silhouette, 1590s Elizabeth 1, the Ditchley portrait

The Great farthingale also known as a drum or wheel or cartwheel and in some casses the Catherine-wheel, this name was given to the style of farthingale which evolved from the french farthingale, becoming fashionable in the 1590's

Unforunatly there are no surviving examples of this type of garment, but throw references like the painting of Queen Elizabeth above and her wardobe accounts during the time refer to the size of the structure. 

The great farthingale was worn at an angle ("low befor + high behind") which elongated the torso and shortened the legs. 

terrible photo of my sketch of a great farthingale, a little to long and a small sketch of the silhoute of the tudor farthingale

Tudor

Great farthingale but not as large as some

Tudor farthingale under structure flats 

this is just amaszing, you can see her blog on the check this one out link I have below 

I love this image with all the mini farthingales 

some resources 

Books:

Corsets and Crinolines 

Basics of Corset building 

Jean Hunnisett books, expensive but worth while and you can get them at the library

Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620

Web

http://www.myfairelady.com/?page_id=39 CHECK THIS ONE OUT 

http://farthingales.on.ca/tips.php?article=54 

http://thompsonfuselage.com/Angus%20TailorFarthingale%20Artical.html

http://www.sempstress.org/2010/recreating-the-alcega-farthingale-for-modern-bodies/

  

I have been Busy

I'm in the prossece of a lot of projects, but it looks like i might be getting a job at coopers and I really need more time focused on sewing, now that I have an amazing two dress forms, one I got 1/2 off at fabricland that is an adjustable form , and one from a really good friend Maridah, who also sent me an amazing wonder woman book and the droid I was looking for.

One of my best friends birthdays was yesterday and my aunt sent her quilt in the mail, I hope she gets it soon, theres also some money so she can get a pedicure.

any ways I'm on day 6 of 7 before 3 days off that will be spent on finishing sewing projects hope to have a bunch of updates and some info about hoop skirts I've been putting together for you :)

Awesome 

and awesomer Maridah = amazing 

These are some of my cosplay ideas for next year 

Bloody Euphi 

Fox Caster 

Lily Caster

Ellie Satter Jurasic Park 

Samantha Carter - SG1